Monday, August 31, 2009

Back to School for Everyone

Today begins the first day of school and like so many other parents, I am relieved. As much as on the last day of school, when after 10+ months, tired of last minute school projects, school event chaperoning, and all the other demands of the school year, I have had enough. This morning there is peace in the home, and I can write, almost uninterrupted; there is the issue of the border collie that seems lost without his "playmates", so the occasional tennis ball and Frisbee show up on the office desk. Not nearly the distraction that three kids can provide ALL SUMMER LONG!

What has this to do with wine you say. Well, to a degree, the wine industry has to get back to school as well. Harvest is moving into full swing, bottling lines are running to make room for the new harvest, issues like screw-cap or cork; bag-in-a-box or bottle; new oak, used oak, neutral barrels or no oak. In sales, issues like depletion's, new placements, DA's SPA's, price adjusting for by-the-glass; A/R and the concern about the economy all take center stage. "OND", (Oct., Nov.,Dec.),is close at hand and notoriously the hottest point of consumption for the year, these questions begin to shape every wineries market position. If the marketing plan for the holidays is in place, then all one needs to do is wait for the orders to come streaming in, right? Not so fast Cochise, it's a bit more complicated than that.

DTC or direct to consumer issues have been the rage this year as every producer recognizes how important it is to "mine" their loyal consumer. More than any other consumer, the wine drinker will jump fences after a greener pasture, in this case wine, when the spirit or the 90 point score moves them. Variety for the wine consumer keeps this buyer moving around the ring more so than the brand loyal Spirit, Beer or Soda consumer; and with the struggling economy, price becomes the first consideration. If you are a small or medium size, family owned producer, your loyal consumer may be your economic salvation and DTC is your best medium for this "harvest". Now I won't discount the importance of a wholesale sales force. Brokers and Distributors serve that needed purpose of gaining points of distribution in key wine shops and Bistro's but the more voices you have in the field the louder you are and the more your consumer will be aware of your existence. DTC has proven to help this issue as long as the producer is active within the available mediums.

Twitter, Blogs, Digg, facebook and every form of social media is a key component. Newsletters, e-mail marketing, Craigs List and e-bay should be employed to move the brand awareness factor forward. Americans are consuming more wine these days and a significant percentage of this consumption belongs to the 21-28 year, young professional with disposable income and a cell phone with 3G capability. All too often, I have found that wineries have yet to jump in the pool of social marketing. It makes me wonder, "what the heck are you waiting for"? If the effort gets you one new consumer a day 365 days a year at an average purchase of $50 per consumer that's 2 bottles at $25 each; that's over $18K a year. A small beginning, but worth the price of an employee focused on e-sales and social marketing. In one fell swoop you just put a dent in unemployment, created a sales based position and improved the bottom line. These days the dollars are too few to ignore any avenue to move sales forward. Most of these DTC, social Marketing tools are free and easy to manipulate with the right mix. Coupons, new releases, price discounts, event announcements, brand logo's and company motto's can be "virtually" spread around the world with little effort and pretty good return. Indeed it is a new day for the small producer looking for guerrilla sales and marketing opportunities. These tools can level the playing field with the larger corporate winery and help get a place at the consumer table.

Sunday, August 30, 2009

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Thursday, August 27, 2009

Fear of Death and Taxes

Recently, Maine, Alabama & Mississippi have been in the news about regressed ideas towards consumption hearkening back to the days of Prohibition. Additionally California has been aggressive in enforcing "Tied House" laws that were previously ignored. There are two things that buzz through my brain when reading about these events. They are the Fear of Death and Taxes.

First the Fear of Death. Yes drinking comes with responsibility. Yes irresponsibility in drinking comes with the worst results. When our education focus on responsible drinking starts highlighting respect for rather than the fear of the substance, the irresponsibility factor may become a minimal concern. Let's face it, all of us, when faced with fear, will do 1 of 2 things; run screaming, "the sky is falling", to warn the minions of chicken-little wannabe's, or, we dive right in to face if not show up our fear. That's when we get in trouble. We either enact rules that make no sense for those of us that are moderately level headed or we become foolhardy in an attempt to out drink the department store manikin. Not a good idea in either case. The temperance types will hide behind their righteous beliefs, and point fingers at everyone else claiming to know more or speak for the majority when that majority disappeared sometime ago, but really many of these "characters" are too scared to consider what option moderation and respect education may offer.

They may also claim their cause as a defense for the meek and indefensible; so when I can't bring my kids to a market where a tasting is in progress because of the irreparable harm it will do; and God forbid the label being tasted is a 19Th century rendering of a well know nude painting! Well don't you know that's double hell points! It makes one wonder if by making wine and growing grapes at home am I secretly teaching my kids to become bootleggers? Honestly, Frantic Fanaticism has no place in Politics and these issues should be left for the population to decide in open debate and public referendums. It was this temperate fantasy that mandated the worst law the U.S. ever put on the books and it was done solely out of fear, not respect. You see respect is born out of knowledge. When one respects a thing, one understands all the baggage that comes with the decision to side with that thing. In this case drinking may cause bodily harm, help you live longer, reduce your cholesterol, improve your over-all health, or not. Moderation seems to be the key here as with everything else in life. So abstinence too must be a personal decision based on respect and understanding, not fear and unnecessary laws.

Second are the Taxes. That driving force for all governments. Without taxes how will these servants of the people get paid? and really that is the issue here. In this economy, our infrastructure is trembling and near shattered in places. A Ten year war has taken its toll and now our entire economy is cracking and the last people to feel the strain is going to be our elected officials. I have yet to hear that the IRS, the State and Local Tax collectors are postponing their collections for the year. So how do we keep these career employees of the state employed? Taxes! More Taxes! Tax the people, Tax the widgets! When the taxes are not enough, outlaw the booze, make it impossible to find, keep the middleclass working, sober and paying their taxes. And when we let them drink, tax them, keep them frightened and tax them again. that is what drives the laws. Born by fear, and rolled out to "protect" society, yet when the fines are levied, the bank accounts become full, and then guess what. John Q Politician gets a raise, while another home is foreclosed and another family displaced.

Every Government official should be given a copy of Adam Smiths, "Wealth of Nations". As for me, well if this writing thing never comes to anything...I think I'll run for office. I hear the job security is pretty good, and the Perks! oh the Perks! Fundraisers and free drink!

Friday, August 14, 2009

Living in $10 Land

In 1982 I moved from the east coast to Northern California. In an attempt to immerse myself in the culture and the wine industry, I took every wine seminar and attended every wine event I could find. Living on waiters wages and San Francisco rent even for that time, wasn't easy. One of the first articles I remember reading was how to build up a personal wine cellar. The premise was to begin buying in layers of wines in different price ranges, varietal types and styles. A few bottles at $10, a few at $15 a few at $20. Eventually one could amass a fifty bottle inventory that then might grow and "WA-La", you have a personal cellar.

I took this article to heart and soon found myself rotating around 200 bottles for the average bottle price of $15 and an occasional $50 keeper when I had the cash. Today I have been able to keep this practice up and continue to rotate around the same amount of wine, but recently I have been buying and consuming in the $10 range. There has been a tremendous amount of press these days concerned with wine industry sales volume. While volume is up, revenue's are down as people like me are buying less expensive wine. Not willing to give up our curiosity of wanting to try new wines but not willing to pay top dollars for the passion, we buy what we can afford in hopes of finding a keeper or two in a great bargain.

This leads me in many directions as I live in a control market and when you get to the counter the taxes alone on the purchase might equal another bottle or three. I use a number of on-line tools and services to accomplish this task and consider gas, money and time when deciding where to go and what to buy. Let's face it, there is usually a marked difference in the quality of a $20 bottle versus a $10 bottle. Quite frankly, some $10 bottles out there shouldn't be and then again there are some $20 wines that shouldn't be either but one feels less pain with the $10 disappointment than the $20 stinker and recently there have been some very nice $10 wines that bring a smile for the find and experience.

To get started I use these services which I would suggest everyone use.

Winesearcher.com has a good base to begin with. you can access area markets and wine prices on the same items to find the best deal.

snooth.com has a very objective board of wine palates that review wines for quality and price. I use this site when looking for a style or varietal type. The social forums are great for hints, information, and tips.

wineaccess.com has an equal board of wine information, links to very good wine shops around the country and mailing list sign-ups that will give you great leads on new wine releases in every price point.

lcb.state.pa.us I would be remiss if I didn't mention this. Living in a control market has its pluses and minuses. Their site gives product searches, up to date inventory, and new chairman's selections and deals.

pennsylvaniawine.com for PA local wineries follow the link and you will find ninety wine producers that will ship, direct to your door, a wide selection of wines from across the commonwealth.

OK so now you have the sites, what next? Well, that is subjective. I am going to give you a few selections I think are fun and won't cost a lot even if you don't like the wine. Ideally, you should always ask the wine steward or store buyer that has a history of tasting these things and may help you identify you flavor preference. I am finding very nice quality in wines from Spain, Portugal, South Africa and Argentina around $10. For $12 to $15 the wines from Chile, Australia, and Washington are good buys. California, New Zealand and Oregon will also have a few "keepers around $15 - $20, but locally you may be surprised by PA wines in the $10-$15 area as well. Italian wines offer the full range and for the purpose of this article, there are a few solid $10-$12 name brands, but I will always ask the buyer their opinion before jumping off to Rome. Lastly I think everyone should take a chance on Mediterranean and Eastern European wines, I have been consistently pleased with the wines from Israel and the Golan Heights. Wines from these regions will run anywhere from $5 Egri Bikaver to $20 Yarden Organic Chardonnay.

So for fun and not a ton of money, start with these, buy two one to drink and one to cellar and begin the cellar building for less:

Spain - Tapena Verdejo $10
Portugal - Gazela Vinho Verde $8
Germany - Twisted River Gewurztraminer $9
California - Kendall-Jackson Sauvignon Blanc $10
Spain - Torres Sangre De Torro Rose $10
Italy - San Giuseppe Pinot Grigio (natural)$10
California - XYZ Zinfandel $12
Australia - Lindemans Bin 50 Shiraz $8
South Africa - Fair Valley Pinotage $11
Chile - Molina Pinot Noir $10
Argentina - Pascual Toso Malbec $9

Tuesday, August 11, 2009

Wineries Reduce; Artisans Produce

It is said that, "necessity is the mother of Invention". When the fall-out of the dot-com age took place in the late eighties, there was a rise in micro-niche tools, software and systems on the market. High-tech industries are not immune from the "Artisan" techie who has an idea and needs a job. That is basically how HP, Apple, and a plethora of organizations got their start.

The Wine Industry is no stranger to this push-pull event. In Chinese we say Chi-sao which, for lack of a more substantive explanation here, is the push pull one gives an adversary or sparring partner on the training floor. This chi-sao or tug of war effect is happening right now in the wine industry, world wide.

Down sizing from the storied slaughter of employees at Kendall-Jackson earlier in the year, to the Pernod-Ricard NZ cancellation of grape contracts in New Zealand, to rumored sales of vineyards and wineries in Australia, California, and pretty much everywhere wine is being produced world wide. There is an over-abundance of vineyards planted in the world and not an equal amount of large producers to take the grapes, so what's a grower to do?

Begin by stop worrying, the market has in the past and will in the future correct this imbalance with artisan. Home wine makers and "garagistes' will realize better prices this year and extended varieties, Wine makers that know the vineyards and are looking for their signature on a label, negotiants seeking to bottle second and third party labels, and growers themselves that may scream "screw-you" to the contractor that sent the cancellation letter, will ferment it themselves. This will make it all the more interesting for the consumer that is seeking variety and a new feel good story about David vs. Goliath. The biggest difference between the mega producer and the Artisan is the love affair with the wine and vineyard versus the profit%, (note I used the % sign here).

Accountants must answer to CFO's who in turn must answer to the investors and someone will loose their gig when the % drops in consecutive quarters. Artisans live like many of us, hand to mouth, paying as we go, making each effort the best they can for the love of the game. You can't put a cost/benefit formula to this, there isn't an investor to please other than the Artisan or cottage business, and most times, what is born from the fall-out, is a great story that the passionate wine consumer identifies with and then BOOM a new cult winery is born.

The event is really nothing new to the industry as it happened after the boutique winery explosion of the 1980's and as far back as the 1880's you can find evidence of consecutive season's of over-production, coupled by a bad economy and under-consumption causing the fallout of employees, landing on their feet in that niche vineyard they knew so well. It is what the health of the wine industry needs, and with time we may see some exceptional wines produced by talented winemakers writing yet another tale for generations to celebrate.

Monday, August 10, 2009

What do Wine Geeks Drink?

Going out to dinner with my friends is always an adventure. When you, "hang out" with people in the industry, like minded souls that spend their days tasting wine,testing new menu recipe's and exploring the creative genius of the flavor spectrum, well lets just say it is an engaging experience. The group will ultimately seek the oddest wine on the menu to pair with the oddest food offered. Recently we have been seeking BYO's or houses that allow BYO opportunities. These days there is usually the, "same old same old", wine list lay-out. We get it, it really isn't rocket science, restaurants are open for profit, the wine selection used to be the main source of this profit margin and in the recent economy, most restaurants have gone to lists that are cost effective, AKA less expensive selections by larger brands for a better profit margin.

The varietal selection is also the same old same old too. Chardonnay in the U.S. on-premise world leads the selective pack followed by pinot grigio, Syrah/Shiraz, Riesling, Cabernet, Sauvignon Blanc, Pinot Noir and then everything else. No complaints, once again we get it, so with the menus reflecting the taste preferences of the main stream consumer, we geeks are challenged. If the house of choice has a producer and or region that is not in the main stream, we have found our wine for the evening, usually though, it is all the more engaging when we each, and this happens, bring something to the table. The house always get to taste, additional food is always purchased and the server will always see a larger than normal gratuity. Being in the business, we know what the restaurant sacrifices, we understand what the extra attention brings. It's not that we resist the wine selection being offered,often we'll buy something anyway to help the cause, its just that as geeks we want to try, as often as possible, as many different wines we can find and share the experience with our brothers in arms so to speak.

I will say this, though, with wine by the glass programs, there aren't many that offer taste flights of their BTG boards, and there are less that test the geek appeal category with an odd selection. What's an odd selection? Let's start by region, South Africa is always fun, when was the last time you found a Pinotage BTG? Go to Israel and the Golan Heights, the wines have always been flavorful, or Eastern Europe anyone? How about right here in the U.S. and I am not speaking about California, Washington or Oregon either. There is wine produced in every state in the Union these days, why not an Idaho wine, Snake river Canyon has some really nice wines. New Mexico? Texas? Virginia, PA. New Jersey? By the glass doesn't have to be a large investment and the pour rate dissipates the wine usually quickly. One would be surprised how the selection might intrigue a diner like us, and there's lots of us out there looking for these things. OK Regions put to bed, how about varietal? Gruner Veltliner isn't something one sees BTG, ever! Falaghina, Torrontes,Vinho Verde, Carignan, Albarino used to fit in this category, but I am seeing it daily now as the newest fad in white wine, so how about Torrontes,Muller-Thurgau, or Silvaner? These wines are out there and all the buyers need to do is ask their purveyors.

Ultimately, we'll keep scouring the wine selections at our local wine shops and looking for a BYO that likes the business. It is a shame, though, with so many cutting edge Artisan Chefs and Restaurateurs in this country, we don't seek to be more unique and less cookie cutter with the wine experience we offer our patrons.

Friday, August 7, 2009

Goin' Down Memory Row

Yeah, it's supposed to be "lane", I know, but in a vineyard it's a row.

So lately I've been drinking wine in the cellar more than wine from the store or wine bar. I am doing my part in this economic crunch, and so I drink/taste what I have, and save the money for the dental bill, phone bill, electric bill, so on. I find myself remebering past days, events and people through this experience, then run to my facebook, or twitter account, to see where the lost friends are, what are they up to, how has time treated them? I remember, and the memories often raise my appraisal of the wine.

Time and wine are not always friendly. I was told from the earliest wine courses, the enemies of fine wine are Air, Light, Temperature and Time. All too often I see that lost soldier in the corner of the cellar, forgotten, has lost the battle with these enemies, and me as the proverbial Calvary, rode in way too late. It has become one of the reasons I don't cellar my wines very often any more. The adage, "It is a far greater crime to drink a wine too old than too young", rings out every time I taste one of these lost units. Like some forgotten misfit in the French Foreign Legion. Lost in a desert of newer wines to be tasted and evaluated and celebrated, we ring in the new vintage and new release far more than we celebrate lost vintages that have offered memorable experiences with comrades long forgotten as well.

The recent vintage for me has been a series of 1992 California Wines. Made during a time when we were enamoured with new, heavy toasted oak, Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet; just about anything that was fermentable, had some percentage of barrel fermentation blended into it. When studies started to show that Americans were not cellaring as often, wines were being consumed more immediately, the cost of oak was going through the roof, and guess what, certain varietals tasted better with lighter or no oak; these styles of wine started to get the tag of "rustic" and began to disappear from the market.

So now the 92's are 16+ years, upon this writing we haven't reached harvest and they are not quite 17. Considered teenagers in another time, these wines are now old soldiers. Who has 16 year old wines laying around other than a wine geek in the industry anyway? Geezers by some standards, are they even worth the cork? Well, I am here to say, so far so good. 1992 came in being touted as another great vintage from California, we weren't aware yet of what 1994 or 1997 was to bring. The 92 vintage was marked by a mild winter, an early spring bud break, and hot summer temperatures. Harvest was the earliest on record by almost a month. The whites were harvested in early August and the reds kept coming through September. Rains in October came earlier than normal, but mostly everything was harvested by this time.

From everything I have tasted so far, the heavy oak has dissipated, the fruit has muted some and they are more integrated than when they were younger. Ready to drink, yes, still have some time left, yes. How much is the question. I won't reduce this to a specific wine produced here by that winemaker, with that vineyard in this method. My point is that I should not have stopped cellaring. Styles be damned, oak or no oak, it is about moments in time, the people I knew, the times we shared, the hope we had, not at all about the weather, the vintage quality, or the producer.

This was a time when men like Robert Mondavi, Robert Pepi,Joe Heitz,Justin Meyer, and Charlie Wagner were at the height of the game in the Napa Valley. New Zealand, South Africa, Chilean and Australian wineries were just beginning to make their U.S. push and writers all over the U.S. were touting the equality dare I say superiority of the Great California Wines vs their Euro counter parts. We were beginning an economic uplift which saw the proliferation of everything from tiny cell phones to the green tea explosion and life was rockin' good. It was a good year, One that I remember fondly as I taste another soldier of that lost legion, and I remark how good it is in my mind, in the glass.

Monday, August 3, 2009

Grape Homogenization

The weekend was spent bottling some wine from 07 that was sitting in 6 gallon glass carboys. A Gewurztraminer from Washington State, A blush of Grenache and Chambourcin and a Grenache, Zinfandel, Syrah blend, all grapes from Lodi. It is a labor of love that pushes me to do this; It will only pay in experience and appreciation for the "Vignon", one who grows grapes and makes the wine, and their own labor of love.

My vineyard that was set out some seven years ago to allow me to produce wine from my own grapes has changed varietal mix twice since and it looks to be two more years before I am released from purchasing California fruit for this hobby. As bottling proceeded the mind wandered towards other wine styles and blends and questions arose of unique flavors and styles. Has the present state of grape grower gone uniform? Have we lost our individual style for the almighty euro or dollar?

I am reminded of an experience in a wine shop in L.A. in the late 1980's. There was a clamor from several wine reps commenting on a stack of wine taking up floor space. The comments went something like, "enjoy your odd wine tonight", envey no doubt over the loss of opportunity for these middlemen, but the mix in the stack was noteworthy to me at the time; Nero d' Avola from Italy, South African Pinotage, a Malbec from South America, Tempranillo from Spain and a Vinho Verde from Portugal. Interesting mix for the day as California was in the magnetic rise of Barrel Fermented, big Malo-lactic Chardonnay, Big over-zealous Cabernet and over-wooded Sauvignon Blanc. Merlot was yet to make it's grand entrance in the market and everything had oak pasted to it. Big, heavy toasted, oak. Homogenization was on the way.

Homogenization is defined by Webster as a blending into uniform mixture. That is where I fear the world of wine grapes is headed. Where once there were hundreds of wine styles by mixtures of unique grape types to choose from, there are few, or fewer to say the least. Chardonnay, Pinot Noir, Cabernet, Merlot, Sauvignon Blanc, Riesling (enoying a present day renaissance), Syrah/Shiraz, and then everything else. As the market demands so the grower plants and we see less and less of unique styles by unique grapes. It was not very long ago that one would be hard pressed to find Pinot Grigio produced outside Italy as an example, but now the array of U.S. Producers that jumped on the band wagon is mind blowing. And the general consumer sitting in XYZ wine bar could care less as long as the juice was Pinot Grigio. Trends, in my opinion, will erase individual winery style and we the consumer will pay the price in experience for it. The thing that made Burgundy unique is everywhere now, and aside from subtle differences, that unique stage is now shared by dozens of Chardonnay & Pinot Noir producers world wide. Cabernet, Merlot & Syrah have followed. The difficulty for a "flavor seeker" is finding uniqueness in a sea of homogenized selections.

There are Rogues among us, Randall Grahm was one, the original Rhone Ranger in a time when everyone else was planting Cab & Chard in the U.S.; The Late Bob Pepi, who ripped out Cabernet in Rutherford for Sangiovese was another, but these rebels are few and far between and the grower like the wine maker want a sale to pay the bills and would rather swim with the current rather than against it, sacrificing their individuality for the TREND-OF-THE-DAY.

It makes the search for something different akin to being Indiana Jones seeking the Holy Grail. Looking for that very unique, tiny production of a grape that only the surrounding village experiences. In a way that's O.K. but the world might be in a better state of flavor experience if the grower sought out their individuality over the trend of the day thereby creating a demand for something no one else was growing or producing.

FYI, That little test plot I started went from Zinfandel, Syrah, Grenache & Viognier seven years ago to Corot Noir, Noiret, Traminette, and Seyval Blanc. Partly due to a resistance to be homogenious while the growers around me harvest Cabernet Franc, and Riesling and partly due to the Eastern weather patterns. It makes me feel like Bob Pepi in a way and all my friends think I'm nuts too. Only time will tell.

Monday, July 27, 2009

Wine & Sensorship

It is fact, that when a people are controlled by the heavy hand of government, the tighter the grip of the government, the more dissidents slip through the cracks.

Freedom, in all its forms, are rights granted by nature to man. That being said man has put in place some basic rules by which to live. Easy to read and understand, without gray areas clouded in confusion. Don't steal, kill, lie, cheat, honor your elders and keep a day sacred for quiet prayer & meditation. Sound familiar, a guy named Moses brought them to us centuries ago. Our founding fathers felt the need to extend this thought to speech, worship, assembly, and taxes. The latter is still a point of contention between our Government and the people. After that the rest is just minutia tied up in legal litigation by some that would assume to know better than the rest of us concerning what is wrong or right.

So when the ABC in Alabama proclaimed a certain wine label as pornographic, the uproar in the various social markets was quite comedic. I began to wonder if anyone took notice of the uproar in Tehran over their seemingly stolen election. This is what happens when a government goes unchecked. Not that a wine label would cause calamity and protests in the streets, but where is the line drawn next? The Alabama ABC should be taken to task on this issue if for no other reason than for freedom of expression, and in comparison to all the sexually explicit ad's one sees in the marketplace, this is vanilla.

(By the way the best line I've heard yet is the direct relationship between this label, the UK study about Women and Red wine and the concern over the increase in Lesbian affairs. Too funny.)

The winery will most likely see an increase in sales of this wine. Hell, a good capitalist would go to town on T-shirts, bumper stickers and bicycle pumps in the shape of a wine bottle. It may now be left to the courts should the winery or merchants or people of Alabama, or a grassroots civil liberty organization care to take up the cause in defense of the people and freedom of expression. We should always remember that freedom is never granted by a govenment, it is won through the vigilance of those who would seek to be free. And every issue that would seek to control what a society reads, sees, experiences, and appreciates should be challenged vigilantly.

Friday, July 24, 2009

The Age of E-ING

My father was in public relations. It was interesting to me as a kid growing up. If you have ever seen the HBO mini-series, "Madmen", then you have an idea of the kind of life I may have had. Not so much drama, but Dad was a "Jet-Setter" and there were weeks when he touched three cities in four days. His office in NY was centered by four cooking stations. They created food art for food ads. Visiting once a month was filling to say the least. Food Photography isn't what one may think. The food is never fully cooked and the props they employed to make things look over the top edible wouldn't cause anyone to salivate. But it was his world, and multi-cultural experiences entered my world because of this.

Today I am an E-er. Not a jet-setter, jetting off to another world, an e-er. Largly due to the economy, I find myself connecting in as many worlds as my dad did or more by FAC-ING; TWEET-ING; BLOGG-ING; SNOOT-ING; E-MAIL-ING; I am an e-er and this is my universe.

I would agree that the virtual could never be replaced by the actual. Where wine is considered, tasting, touching, smelling, experiencing the "actual", is everything. Yet in today's economy, it is hard to visit McLaren, Casablanca, Tasmania, Red Mountain, Amalfi, Galicia, & Mt. Hermon in a day unless you E-hop. So I do with all the gusto I can. Seeking reviews and recommendations from obscure, out of the way places in corners of the globe that I may never have the time, money or means to actually visit. All the while musing that it all started with the jet-setting sixties and now I travel, virtually, everywhere learning as I go, meeting amazing people and touching a piece of them through their wines, that I then seek on winesearcher or snooth and the order for delivery for my next wine class.

It may be that this type of travel is a shell of the full existance that my jet-setting parents engaged in; Yet in all my e-travels, I never get tired of the life and the tales seem just as real and I am always home for supper with my family.

Its a great day johnny, a great day.

Monday, July 20, 2009

Wine, Manners & Summer Movies

I used to love going to movies, especially summer blockbusters. There was always something about the event as a kid. Things have changed, though, and going to those, "events", aren't the same.

There was always a build-up to the movie, sneak-peeks on TV, a buzz in the neighborhood, then the event, the real buttered popcorn, (OK I just dated myself), the dinner afterwards, the real enthusiasm to see it again. So off to the theatre we went to see the new release. My wife & I enjoyed a bottle of Chilean Carmenere, some grilled fish and the kids had their usual cheeseburgers. The event was on its way. I felt like a kid again, viewing the anticipation through my kids eyes and actions. The dinner conversation was robust and the "don't touch me, stop touching me", dinner events we experience was replaced by good humored, enjoyment of company time and subject matter. It was almost too good to be true. And it was.

Many people don't take the time anymore to instruct manners to their kids and it shows up in crowded theatres where the tweenagers are left to let loose. Couple this with the new parents seeking a night out and bring the infant to the theatre, maybe trying to save a babysitter buck, I get it, but really? How about the Grand mother that lights up in the back row with the posse of kids attached to her hip seemed a bit over the top. We were in movie hell, slowly watching our perfect evening sink, leaving us stranded like a shipwrecked crew on the lost island of ill-mannered movie goers. It was then that I was reminded why I spend the cash for Direct TV, Tivo & HD TV. Why I prefer to grill my own fish and toss my own salad, and keep a moderate supply of red & white wine and Ice Cream on hand. How Mr. Reddenbacher did the rest of us a favor with his micro wave popcorn and that the comfort of my couch, and easy viewing of the family wide screen was worth the Christmas Bonus I got Three years ago.

We left the theatre, made a "B" Line for the Managers office to get a refund of the $72 for the 3-D premium tickets we over-paid for and re-capped our displeasure of the entire experience. It wasn't the smoking Granny that did it, It wasn't the four teens that wouldn't stop talking, texting and laying over a row of seven chairs between them, it wasn't the crying infant that simply needed a burp, it wasn't the endless passing of bodies between chairs to and from the bathroom and snack rack that did it. Simply put, we had a great night out and wanted to keep it that way. The thought of talking to my family, playing a board game and watching a $5 pay-per-view with a chilled bottle of sparkling wine and endless moose tracks ice cream, made the once momentous event at the theatre pale in comparison.

I don't fault others for their behavior in crowds; really, that is a persons upbringing and many just haven't been taught how to act in a respectful manner. I know many will disagree, but why waste your breath on those less respectful of others. They'd never get it in a million years. So here's to the home theatre. I'll wait for the DVD next time.

Oh Yes, the wine, a 2007 Conco Y Toro Carmenere & a Bottle of Gruet Brut from New Mexico.

Friday, July 17, 2009

The Economy of Wine; Cost? Expense? Experience?

This week I found myself in my cellar wondering if I should attempt to open an old soldier for my own personal enjoyment. I came accross an older California Chardonnay and since it was that time of the day, I seemed to think that a glass now would be ok and really, 4:30 p.m.? dinner isn't far off in my home and my spouse is not a white wine drinker and well, there it was, a temperature kept, dusty bottle from the 1993 vintage in the Alexander Valley. Yeah, it was time for me and the soldier. As the saying goes, "it is a far greater crime to drink a wine too old than too young," and I wonder if I will be a criminal with this wine. It took this bottle roughly 15 years, as it really wasn't harvested for another 90 days or so, to finally make it to a glass. I was getting ready to write another wine article for the womens journal and I was considering the economy and wine as a topic, which then became the economy of wine, which had been a hot topic among the trades as of late, and then found this 15 year old bottle in my kitchen being opened and poured for an early evening aperitif.

We as a consuming society, do not cellar our wines as much as wine once was aged. The later part of the 20th and into the early part of the 21st century has seen cellars dwindle and consumption increase. To that end producers worldwide have changed the way they produce a larger percentage of their wine. Things are made to be immediately accessible and that sacrifices the aging potential. An average person may consider consuming first vs. aging against price point at the cash register. Cost and its endless consideration becomes something of a maze inside a consumers wallet. What's the cost in time, currency, percieved value? Do I buy 1 or 2 or 12? Will I save it for a special day? Can I afford it now to drink later and how much Later? All the while the wine clerk is tapping their fingers at the counter. In a restaurant the questions become all the more sensitive as the server has other tables, your guests are hungry and thirsty, and while we weigh the menu selection versus the experience, there is that damned budget to consider.

The question may be even heavier at the winery as well. What was the grape cost, how dense is the extract and how many bottles will be produced? If blended with another source or varietal, what will happen to the quality, volume, and cost and what can we get in today's marketplace? Will it sell at $X versus $X and will we sell the entire lott or have to discount and wholesale ship a large portion to make way for the next vintage?

Virtually no consumer considers this when they are about to part with their cash for a bottle of grape juice, but the ripple effect from grape to glass is felt in every level of demographic. The picker and cellar rat working for their daily wage, the captain of industry balancing their investment with their passion/ego against their labor/sales & marketing cost against forcasted market demands. The question of cost and expense answers to a myriad of considerations that impacts society more than anyone might consider and all anyone really wants to know is, "can't I just get lost in the passion of friends and family and grape juice and escape the times and pressures of the day for even a moment?" Whats the cost?! Whats the expense?!

So I go back to my bottle and my article and notice that while California Chardonnays are never given much due towards their aging potential, this one has kept its color, however deeper gold than when first produced and the flavors of aged asiago cheese and over ripe citrus permeate the glass, my old soldier has held up nicely and I remember that year, those life experiences and long lost friends of the time. The expense matters not and the cost to percieved value is meaningless, I brush thoughts of good people, all types of experiences, and shadows of moments aside from my minds eye. The economy of today and then remind me that money isn't everything, experience is everything and what we do means more than how much we have accumulated in money or wine in the cellar.

Wow, 15 years flew by, but like the song says, " I close my eyes, only for a moment and the moments gone..." (Kansas, Dust in the Wind).

by the way...it was a 1993 Stonestreet Chardonnay and no crime was committed.